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Loyal Nine, Cambridge

"What was this before? The liquor store?" Jes said to me as we waited for Loyal Nine to open for brunch.

It's hard to believe that 25 years ago, Jes and I roamed the streets of East Cambridge with our little gang of friends. I spent my summers at the Gold Star pool, first as a child, and then as a lifeguard, and the walk would take me down Cambridge St, every day. Between Lone Star Taco Bar and Loyal Nine, it appears the hipsters have invaded East Cambridge and are here to stay.

The dinner menu takes inspiration from the colonial era (as in foods the pilgrims ate) using local New England ingredients. I read a neat article about how every 2 weeks, chef Sheehan wades into North Scituate to get 30 quarts of water to dehydrate to make his own homemade sea salt. The brunch menu is more staid. I got the Augusta potato rosti ($12). It came with creamed chipped beef with a fried egg on top. Rosti is essentially a Swiss version of potato latkes. It was a nicely composed dish; the rosti was crispy, the beef was tastier than it sounded and the egg was perfectly runny.



Jes ordered the milk and honey cake ($12) and I was conflicted about this dish. The cake was excellent. It was moist, with a tender and airy crumb and deep honey flavor. She was given a whole loaf (probably, 5.5" x 3.5"?) with the small amount of stewed prunes and whipped cream. It was listed as an entrée, so she basically ate a large brick of cake for breakfast. Why not sell a slice, as a side, for $4 instead? She had to order potatoes to supplement her meal ($6). They were over-priced, but beautifully golden brown and well-seasoned.



You know what they say, you can't go home again. But if you do, get a maple latte ($5) – it was delicious.

http://www.loyalninecambridge.com/menu.html

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