gltsoi (gltsoi) wrote,

Park Restaurant & Bar, Cambridge

Park is in the basement space where Redline, a divvy college bar, used to be. It is located on JFK St. in Harvard Square. They remodeled the space in to a “rustic-meets-luxe subterranean space accented by soft leather couches & armchairs, bookshelves stocked with vintage titles, reclaimed wood tables,” I liked the ambiance – it was kind of cozy, but too dark to take any photos of our meal.

Leslie and I had dinner there before going to see Chris Kimball Live (from America’s Test Kitchen). The restaurant was half full on a Wednesday night, but the bar area looked lively.

They gave us complimentary homemade crackers and cheddar drizzled with a port wine reduction to start the meal. I thought that was a nice touch.

For our meal, we shared the crispy mussels ($9), braised lamb belly ($20) and sides of bacon-gruyere fries ($5) and braised chard ($5). The mussels were excellent; they were fried in a light, crispy tempura batter and came with a horseradish dipping sauce. The portion was extremely generous for an appetizer, but that did not stop us from finishing the whole thing. We found the rest of the meal in desperate need of seasoning. The lamb belly was too fatty, even for the belly cut, but there was good flavor. It was served atop farro with zucchini, baby artichokes and carrots. I love the nutty chew of farro. The fries were thick steak cut, stacked in a jenga column drizzled with a flavorless white sauce. If I didn’t know it was a gruyere sauce, I wouldn’t even have been able to identify it as cheese. After a generous grind of salt, the chard was tasty and hearty.

The prices were reasonable and our server was attentive and enthusiastic. I think as long as you have access to the salt grinder, it’s a nice place to grab a bite in the Square.

BTW, Chris Kimball was delightful dorky, as you would expect him to be. We had great seats and I thought his talk was funny and interesting.

Chris Kimball at the Sanders
Tags: cambridge, gastropub, restaurant review
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