gltsoi (gltsoi) wrote,

Montréal, Day One – Cheese, Lunch, Cheese, and Smoked Meat.

We had a fabulous weekend in Montreal with MJ and Brian. We left Friday at 9am, and our first stop was Neighborly Farms ( for some cheese tasting. It’s a cute, red barn, down a long country road, lined with cows. They have a small retail shop, with two large viewing windows for the cheese making. There was a large steel vat where they were heating and stirring the curds and whey up to 102 degrees before draining. We sampled a Colby and a Raw Milk Cheddar; both were very good. The best cheese was a spring onion cheddar (excellent choice, MJ) that we got. It was one of their 2 award winning cheeses, and it was absolutely delicious. The website says that the Harvest Co-op in Cambridge sells their cheese, so I think a trip to Central Square is in my future.


Our next stop was lunch. Originally we were going to stop at Simon Peirce, but due to a navigation snafu on my part, we dined in Burlington, VT. After consulting ArchitStar and using Brian’s cool new iPhone, we settled on Leunig’s Bistro. We ordered Steak Frites, Duck tacos, Croque monsieur, and a burger. MJ also had gazpacho.  Lunch was good, nothing spectacular to note, it was decent enough given the lack of research.


Cheese stop #2 – Green Mountain Blue Cheese. Weird little farm, out in the middle of nowhere. We took us a while to get there (navigation snafu #2) and when we arrived, there was no one there, but there was a note on the door that said, “Come on in, if Dan and Dawn aren’t here, the cheese is in the cooler and help yourself to samples in the butter dish.” We wandered in, it was empty, with a fridge with a cow on it at the end of the hall. Hubby tried a sample, the rest of us passed and we left. Very strange.


For dinner we went to Schwartz’s Deli to try their famous smoked meat. It was the culinary highlight of my trip. Smoked meat is brisket that has been rubbed with their spice blend and smoked. It’s a harshly lit, hole in the wall restaurant, with a line out the door. Sandwiches are $5, but for $10 you can get a large platter of smoked meat to make your own sandwich. A large platter has enough meat for 3 sandwiches, but with my Freudian hearing, I thought the waiter said 2, so I ordered 2 platters. Everyone was surprised that I got 6 sandwiches worth, but needless to say we finished every last bite, including the crunchy edges bits I called meat croutons. You can specify the fattiness of the meat; we went with one “medium” and one “fat”. The meat was juicy, moist, smoky and phenomenally good. I think MJ said it was “fatty and lovely.” I joked that I should write a book “1001 things to eat before you die.” This would be on the list.


Go to Montreal, go to Schwartz’s, and go get a smoked meat sandwich (before you die).

Tags: montreal, restaurant review, vermont
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